![](https://moveablefeast.relish.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/seafood-paella-main.jpg)
Paella is so iconic in Spain, says Chef Mullen with a grin, that “families have been torn apart in arguments about what the right paella is.” The traditional method, he says, involves cooking it over a fire of orange-tree wood. Mullen used a charcoal grill, and it does add depth of flavor, but an oven works just fine.