When most Americans hear “pork ribs,” they imagine either the sauce-slathered, falling-off-the-bone version that’s the centerpiece of so many backyard barbecues or those you’d demolish at some great dive in Memphis, the meat coming away with a gentle tug from teeth. These ribs, the kind you’d find at booze-heavy, grill-focused Thai establishments, are decidedly different. Cut across the bone into pieces just a few inches long and marinated in a Chinese-influenced mixture of whiskey, honey, and ginger, they’re grilled over charcoal until they’re just tender—not spoon-tender, not falling-off-the-bone tender. Or to put it less generously, as some do, they’re too chewy. These ribs, to be clear, are not chewy. They just don’t disintegrate when your teeth hit them. This recipe is excerpted from Pok Pok. Read our review.